Sunday, 18 September 2016

Home Town Through Outsider Eyes

It has to be said that we see more of many of our far-flung network of friends and family now that we live in a little, out-of-the-way town than we ever did when we lived in the big smoke.


Jacaranda season - Chief Mgiyeni Khumalo street becomes a lilac dell
Some, bless them, make the journey east over the escarpment specially to see us but an astonishingly large portion visit the area regularly anyway, and naturally drop in to while away an hour or a few days with us.

Lekker! (an Afrikaans word difficult to translate but usually uttered with glee, approbation and a great deal of satisfaction.  You get the drift.) Our home at times has a revolving door, spitting out ex-pat-now-Australians as it envelops Joburgers. Along with a birdsighting list, we should have an Origins list, which this year alone includes Australians, Yanks, Brits, Joburgers, Durbanites and more ranging from 11 years of age to 77 and with diverse interests. 

And that's before we include the guests we've hosted in our small accommodation venture, so you can imagine the bustle of busyness in which we live. Exhausting indeed but always so special to retie those friendship knots more firmly and to meet an assortment of lovely people for the first time.


Water, agriculture and town all in one view
The second duty of hosting after ensuring guests are comfortably ensconced with a glass of wine is, of course, to play area travel guide.  Kruger, naturally, generally tops the list (but if ONE more visitor returns with tales of seeing the Big 5 before lunch, travelling the same road we've driven ruts into in our regular vain attempts to do the same, they will check out sooner than planned!)

And going to Mbombela Stadium to watch rugby will never be the same again after watching SA-Argentina with the Karlsson mob, supplemented by running into a few of Him Outdoors' old rugby mates who'd travelled all the way from Hartebeespoort to support the Boks.

Unexpectedly, it was the Wobblie's eating and drinking tour of White River town that opened our eyes to the lovely places under our noses that we haven't popped into yet.  Dad's honeymoon with Val had us in stitches, as the Lovebirds posted photograph after photograph onto Facebook (yes, really!) of them washing samoosas down with a craft beer at Phat Boys and buying game pies, game pate and naartjie preserve at Carmel (which they swear has the best cake in town). Until they went to Sip and were entranced by the Alice in Wonderland decor and decadent pastries.


And it wasn't just the gourmand offerings, either. Rae Kirton from Dynamic Vision spent ages repairing Dad's spectacles and refused to charge.  Overall, the travelling Wobblies fell head over heels in love with White River.  The people, the friendliness they encountered everywhere, the beauty, pace of life and the myriad of special little offerings, nooks and crannies that make up the town.  They commented on how clean the main street was and how much they enjoyed being able to wander on foot from one coffee shop to the next, browsing at all the shops in between.


Listening to their excited recounting of the day's adventures every evening for a week was a sharp reminder about how easily we are blinkered to our closest surrounds.  It's time to ramp out of the rut and utilise more of what's in our backyard instead of travelling the same old path.


  


    






Friday, 29 July 2016

Groundhog Day on the Bucket List

Long before the phrase 'bucket list' was coined, I had a list - places I wanted to visit and experiences to have before shuffling off this mortal coil. There's nothing unusual about having a list nor the choices on mine:
Zanzibar
Cuba (before McDonalds and Holiday Inn get there)
Morocco
The Camargue
Russia
The Great Migration (particularly a hot air balloon trip above it)
Sossusvlei 
Mexico
Tunisia
Turkey
Antarctica
Norwegian Fjords by boat
Northern Lights
Okavango swamps and delta
Madagascar
Goa

Way back in 2003, Zanzibar got a look in when travel companies started pushing it as the destination de jour. So off we went, a friend and I, and oh, my, Zanzibar delivered everything imagination had conjured up, and more, soaring way above expectations.  How delicious it was to tick off a listed item and discover it went beyond what was hoped.

What more natural decision, then, to want to share this treasure with Him Outdoors and honeymoon there in 2005?  Life Lesson number 4876 - never, ever revisit a ticked off list destination, disappointment is sure to follow. 

Ferocious marketing of package tours during the intervening two years had changed the atmosphere.  No longer were we frequently accosted in Stonetown by eager locals, keen to shake hands, say 'Jambo' and welcome us to Zanzibar with no further expectations than just welcoming friendliness.  Now, constantly buffeted by salesmen and panhandlers, the final straw was Him Outdoors being scolded by an elderly lady one evening when out for a stroll.  It was far too dangerous for Mzungus to be in the streets of Stonetown after dark, she said. Drugs had established themselves on the island and desperate people would knife you for a fix.  Innocence lost.

Now, before you strike the island from your list, don't.  It's awesomeness outweighs the consequences of an influx of outsiders.  The beaches, diving, historic places of interest and sheer beauty are hard to match elsewhere.  The point is this - once you've visited a longed for destination, tick it off and don't return, it will never be the same.

Back to the list.  The second item to be crossed off was Tanzania's Serengeti National Park during the migration and again, it lived up to expectations despite our not being lucky enough to witness a river crossing.  My heart was truly sore when we left, though. Somehow it didn't feel like enough and a little part of my soul remained behind on the savannah.




How lucky am I?  Him Outdoors got a contract in Kenya so in 2015 we watched the migration from the other side of the border.  We've just relished our second in-season trip to the Maasai Mara, returning to loll in the magnificent luxury of Spirit of the Masai Mara lodge and yet again, their Maasai guide delivered us into the core of the Mara.  We couldn't want for more, getting up close and personal with lion, cheetah, hyena, leopard, jackal, elephant...you name it, we saw it and were lucky enough to have many sightings to ourselves where we could just sit and watch the behaviour rather than tick off the mammal sighting list and move on.




And like the previous two visits to East Africa's magnificent spectacle, a little bit of my soul was left behind and I'm already counting the days til we can return.

What hope of clearing the bucket list now when I'm so happily reliving the same experience over and over? What happened to Rule 4876?!




Thursday, 28 July 2016

Maasai Mara Road Mechanics

The scene could be anywhere in the African bush.  A group of people leaning back into well-worn canvas chairs, icy beer in hand and booted feet casually resting near the flames of a wood fire.  Overhead, gazillions of stars blink like crystals nestling on a blanket of plush velvet. The deep exhalations of sheer contentment push thoughts of anything outside the circle of presence as far away as can be.

And then it begins.  Landrover vs Landcruiser with everyone firmly in one of the camps, for life. There is absolutely no room for fence sitters in this debate, ever, and there's definitely no option to select Nissan, Mercedes or even Porsche (snigger!)

Toyota have the lead on bumper stickers, memes and spare wheel covers, cheekily nose thumbing Landrover's reputation for breakdowns and yes, we've certainly chortled at our Rover friends many mechanical failure experiences. Although truth be told (shush, don't tell Him Outdoors I've let this out of the bag!) our Cruiser was once pulled out of deep Mozambique sand by a Range Rover...   

East Africa, in finest Colonial tradition, is Landrover country.  Or was.  A veritable Pearl Harbour assault on the motor industry is making inroads for the Japanese Johnny-come-latelies. But the iconic square nose and body of Landrover still covers the plains in droves.

If you follow this blog, you'll know that very few of our travels are breakdown-free and the latest Maasai Mara adventure didn't let us down, although we weren't in our own vehicle or even driving!

Barrelling along in the Landrover towards Sekanani Gate after a long, twelve hour day filled with exciting sights and experiences, our minds were saturated with colour, dust, noise and the overwhelming sensation of watching Mother Nature in high resolution. Conversation ebbed and eyelids struggled to stay at full mast until a weird 'cluck cluck cluck' rattled us out of inertia.

Rumbling to a halt, the XY Chromosomes exited and assumed serious expressions of concern as they clustered around the front end.  Apparently some split pin thingy had broken and fallen off, meaning a crucial nut followed and now the right front wheel was gaily following it's own track, completely oblivious to the demands of either it's partner wheel or the steering apparatus.  Whoopsie!


Safari vehicles rushing past to make the gate deadline were flagged down and asked for parts while some of our lot hiked down the road looking for the nut (yes, I know, it was a long shot!) One helpful passerby produced a hooked bungy cord and, in true African style, within minutes a repair plan was made and we were off.

Africa - this is why we live here. 

Nutters searching for a nut!


It was quite disappointing, really, as an enormous herd was making its way towards us and, with plenty of picnic left and warmly lined ponchos we could have made a night of it in the Mara.  But another rule of Africa is that the adventurous prospect of an unplanned camp-out is only going to happen accompanied by a beer.  And our coolerbox was empty of Tusker!  Soon rectified when we got through the gate, however, with a pitstop at Rex's Bar for everyone to celebrate the latest escapade with a brew.  And to reminisce about the last time we were in that same Landrover, which failed to start just minutes away from a lion sighting.  


Would have been a perfect campsite, those herds were moving...
Times change and this particular Landie is about to be replaced by a Landcruiser, and Japanese efficiency will deplete us of some wonderful tales to tell.  





Thursday, 14 April 2016

Neighbourliness

What makes a good neighbour?  Someone who treats your kitchen as hers? Whose kids spend more time in your house than their own?  What about the other extreme - you have no idea what your neighbours look like.  You may have seen them once, pulling out of their driveway and studiously turning their heads to avoid your tentative wave, but that's it.

I have a very good neighbour and our neighbourly relationship is perfect, although some may find it odd.  Both single women living alone, similar ages, we work in the same complex, belong to the same bookclub and usually see each other once a month.  At book club.  

"How is that possible?" you ask.  Surely we are an ideal match to have a kind of revolving door situation, doing many things together almost joined at the  hip?

Well, no.  We get on very well, have children similar ages, love the same books, have the same interests but we are both, individually, busy people.  It's proven quite difficult to fix dates to get together so now we grab the odd moments (loadshedding candle light drinks on my patio and a very relaxed Friday night swinging in her uber comfy 'egg' chairs after a delightful supper.)  Occasional messages checking that one or the other isn't the only person without water or power and a friendly chat when we pass in the street is pretty much it.

But here is why she's the very best of neighbours and we have such an excellent neighbourly marriage.  I'm out of the country for a while and got a message from her to ask about a strange car which has taken up residence in my driveway. Heart pounding, I ask her to give security a call to check it out, which she did immediately and kept me up to date with events as they unfolded. Nothing to worry about, just a cheeky neighbour taking advantage of additional parking but still, my fab neighbour noticed an oddity and went to the trouble to let me know, alerted security and followed through.

Now that's a wonderful human being and a special neighbour.  Close enough to notice and care, reserved enough to respect our mutual privacy.

Viva Sherreen at No 4!

The Orange Cake

Gotta love how easy it is to be connected across the globe today.  I’m old enough to remember airmail letters, those flimsy blue gummed sheets we used to fill with childish letters written to longed for grannies a world away.  The yucky tasting edges were licked and the missives sent on their way and in a few weeks, we’d have a reply.  This is how we kept in touch.  Phones were large,heavy, Bakelite instruments firmly placed on a special telephone table and never used – call rates were pricey and international calls absolutely out of the question!

A shrinking world has resulted in many moves, either ours or friends, to distant places and caused tears a’plenty.  However, digital cameras, wifi, social media, email, Skype, What’s App - all accessible when we are on the move or stuck at our desks keep us in strong contact and it’s a wonderful thing.  We share special moments, bad moments, tears, giggles, drama and the ordinary and when we finally meet up in person it feels as though we just have a week or so to catch up on, not a few years.  It also allows us to ‘introduce’ current friends with faraway ones so everyone is familiar when we’re all together again.

And so to this morning’s tale.  A dear friend moved to the opposite side of the country 5 months ago.  She’s a tad homesick and I miss her dreadfully, so we What’s App every so often to share an electronic hug, as it were.  It was fab to see her message arrive earlier and good to get caught up on the news, even though the distance at the moment is further than usual – she’s in Cape Town where she should be but I’m in Nairobi though of course, you wouldn’t know it from the amazing electronic miracle that we communicate by these days.

Listening with a heavy heart to her struggles in adapting from a very small town to big city, an image came to mind.  Her popular, has-the-neighbourhood-fighting-for-the-last-piece Orange cake.  Its famous in our ‘hood and much missed now she’s no longer here to take orders for it.  A rich, fresh crumbly cake, sunshine hued with strands of orange peeping through, melt in the mouth, leaving the zesty hint of orange and richness of cream to embrace the pleasure centres and dusted with icing sugar, it’s as gorgeous on the eye as it is in the tummy.

But it doesn’t start out that way.

In the beginning, her famous Orange cake is broken eggs, a sticky mess in a bowl which is thoroughly beaten before being poured into the baking pans.  Blasted by fierce heat it firms up and rises to it’s dazzling maturity.  Reaching out to be the best it can be, a shimmer of white sugar completes the perfect picture and perhaps an orange blossom or two is scattered playfully on top (well, we do live in the Lowveld, citrus country!)

Presented on a beautiful plate, it elicits oohs and ahs and is appreciated and savoured slowly and with absolute pleasure. 

Are we not like this striking work of art?  Sometimes we’re bashed and broken and at our lowest, the beating continues.  Then gets worse until we see no end in sight, the intensity of our troubles (emotional or physical) burning deep. 
But lo, something is happening.  Be it an unexpected, tiny something, a flicker of hope and light emerges and slowly, slowly, we emerge from our ‘oven’.  And in time, this ordeal has passed.  Whatever we feel about our troubles, there is no doubt that having survived them we are wiser as to our strength, our friends, our ability to cope. 

And that extra line etched into our foreheads, the lovely fold of flesh that has appeared at our waist, is a beautiful reminder that we are maturing into the best we can be.


Saturday, 27 February 2016

Left out of the picture

So here's what keep my brain fizzing in the wee hours of the morning.  Left handed cameras.  

Seriously. Although the chilli-laden late night pizza could possibly have played a role in the nocturnal meanderings.

12% of people are left handed, and as a righty forced to delegate teaching her left handed toddler to use (left handed) scissors to a lefty friend, and who remembers well how excited said friend was when she bought a fridge with a left handed door, I've some awareness of how awkward the most basic of daily functions are for left handers.

Extrapolating the stats, it's possible that 6 of the 52 members of our photographic club are lefties. Are there cameras for left handers?  Do left dominant photographers have to learn deftness on the right to operate their Nikon? A proponent of the viewfinder eyepiece rather than the LCD screen I can't imagine how much getting used to it takes to glue one's eye to the rubber while blindly pushing buttons with the wrong hand.   It's not just the shutter-release button, either, all the button controls, knobs and dials at the back and on top of the camera are on the right hand side as well.

And there's that awfully handy chunky grip on the right end, so useful for grabbing the camera and carrying it along ready to lift it up and grab a quick capture when needed.  A lefty would either have to carry it in her 'wrong' hand, or carry the camera upside down in her left.  Awkward.

"The world," my ambidextrous son's Occupational Therapist once announced, "is made for right handed people.  So we'll make him right handed."  How right she is, because as I sit here staring at my camera bag I note the zip runs left to right. The office printer buttons are on the right. And living in a country that drives on the left, the driver's seat controls are neatly tucked out of sight and almost out of reach on the right hand side.  

Yes, the skinny gene and straight dark hair fairy may have been off duty when I was put together but I'm awfully grateful that the right dominant angel was having a good day and claimed me as one of her own.  One less endless series of daily challenges to conquer.  

Nonetheless, in a world where some pretty unfathomable 'issues' are conceptualized and battled over, surely a protest picket should be set up outside Nikon and Canon et al?  Why should a customer be discriminated against because she is wired differently to the masses?  Paying the same money as a righty for a DSLR which she then has to adapt her brain and dexterity to use. Equal rights for the left, I say.  

And once the Left = Right movement gains momentum, car manufacturers had better watch out.  A left-handed option for driving controls and seat belts should be on their selection board alongside colour.

Monday, 8 February 2016

Fueling vehicles and generators with fish and chips

An abridged version of this article was published in Skyways September 2015.

“People just don’t care”, says Paolo Cavalieri, co-owner of Allwin Biodiesel in White River, his face washed with disillusion.  Nestled in one of South Africa’s largest conservation areas, Allwin Biodiesel is surrounded by game reserves and luxury eco lodges yet Paolo and partner Brian Tilly struggle to find a market for the biofuel they manufacture from used cooking oil.

Predictably, in the battle between fossil and renewable fuel, price raises its hand.  Allwin’s biofuel sells fractionally below the pump price of regular diesel at the filling stations.  But that’s considerably more expensive than the wholesale price and despite the global furore over climate change, fossil fuel and the development of renewable energy, local businesses are voting with their wallets. 

By contrast, Port Elizabeth based Greentech Biofuels has found widespread support from both local business and private individuals across the Eastern Cape for their B100 biodiesel (100% biodiesel) and B50 biodiesel (50% biodiesel/50% standard diesel) products which they began producing in January 2012.  CEO Hayden Hill estimates that, using an average of 10 kilometres per litre consumption, some 2.5 million kilometres have been travelled on his biofuel to date. 

Hill believes that market acceptability and propensity to use biodiesel instead of petrodiesel relies on other factors.  “It’s about finding the right mix between price and quality,” he says.  In his opinion, this is not a challenge faced by biodiesel manufacturers alone, it’s applicable to all businesses. 

He adds, though, that consumers living outside major city centres are positioned further along the innovation adoption curve and resist changing to a new product.  In outlying areas, price sensitivity increases and the value placed on environmental benefits drops.

While struggling to contain his disappointment, Cavalieri becomes more animated as he enthuses over the benefits of manufacturing biodiesel from used cooking oil.  He’s proud that 50 000 litres a month of toxic used cooking oil isn’t poured down the drain or used as additive to animal feed, which we ultimately consume, because his fleet of four biodiesel powered trucks collect it for conversion.  He has small children and it’s important to him that a sulphur free fuel with 75% less exhaust and 80% less CO2 emissions is available.  Cavalieri chuckles as he refers to his vehicles running on “100% Fish and Chips!”

Biodiesel has a much higher flashpoint (120°C) than fossil fuel (70°C) and no engine modifications are necessary to use it, although Cavalieri suggests that vehicles manufactured pre-1995 check that their rubber hoses are made of Viton E rubber before switching to biodiesel, as otherwise the hoses will perish.  He also recommends that motorists changing over to biodiesel in high doses keep a fuel filter close by, especially on long trips in the early stages.  Biodiesel has excellent cleaning properties and will clean out the fuel tank and engine while it runs, resulting in a clogged fuel filter. 

Allwin’s biofuel is manufactured to SABS standard SANS833.  Making it, says Cavalieri, is not rocket science but takes time and patience, adding that it’s “a costly and stinky business”.  Happily, Allwin’s frustrating struggle to gain traction in the market for its pure product could soon be over when the new regulations regarding the Mandatory Blending of Biofuels with Petrol and Diesel come into force on the 1st October 2015.

Cavalieri sees the future of biodiesel lying in a mixture of 5% biodiesel /95% petrodiesel, and that’s what the government thinks too, hence the mandatory blending of 5% biofuels with all petrol and diesel (part of the Biofuels Industrial Strategy published in 2007) - the final blended diesel product has to comply with SA National Standard SANS 342 (automotive diesel fuel).

Roy de Gouveia, Managing Director of Biogreen in Cape Town, is bullish about the future of biofuel, particularly as a blend – his company sells thousands of litres of biodiesel every month and de Gouveia confidently forecasts that sales will continue to grow with the new regulations.  His aim now is to gather the assortment of biofuel manufacturers, especially the “bakkie brigade” under one umbrella and to work together, sharing the same channel and logistic mechanism, operating in a similar fashion as the fossil fuel industry.  “There’s a rising tide,” de Govuveia comments “and people need to get into the boat now before it’s too late.”

Referring to the Rose Foundation, which set up a few distributors nationwide to collect and recycle used lubrication oil, he says that isn’t possible with biodiesel and cooking oil – the amount of waste oil and the diesel price fluctuate too widely.

“The cost of manufacture and waste oil is too high,” says de Gouveia, “and part of the problem is that the international price is so high, waste oil goes offshore.”  It’s certainly true that the value of waste oil in biofuels is recognised in the United States and the competitive market there scarily cut-throat, resulting in the price of used cooking oil skyrocketing.  Operating for 24 years in the New York / New Jersey area, Grease Lightning is confronting the increasing problem of oil pirates.  Illegally coupling their hoses to the waste tanks in restaurants and hotels, the rustlers blithely make off with their bounty – greasy, smelly gold they turn into black market biodiesel in backyard stills.

South Africa may be a long way from that, however, but selling their used oil, instead of slopping it down the drain, could be a useful income earner for hospitals, schools, military bases, prisons, restaurants and hotels.  And a positive environmental stride forward for us all.
Mucky oil ready for the Cinderella treatment




Turning chip oil into diesel - the Allwin Biodiesel process

-      Used oil is collected and delivered to the plant where it is filtered twice to remove fragments of fried food

-      It is then heated and a sample undergoes a Titration test, to determine the quality of the oil, and the amount of chemical additive required to achieve a reaction.

-      Methanol (alcohol base) and Potassium Hydrochloride (catalyst) are added to the oil

-     - A chemical reaction takes place to realise the three fatty acid molecules of the oil molecule, forming biodiesel (which is light) and glycerol (which is heavy)

-     - Overnight settling allows separation of the two elements

-    -  Glycerol is drained off the next day, and the process repeated and the biodiesel tested

-     - The biodiesel is then washed to remove any soap.  Initially milky, the water clarifies and once clear is left to settle overnight

-     - Next the water is drained off and heated to evaporate any water residue

-     - After undergoing one final test, the biodiesel is pumped into a storage tank  through a 10 micron water-absorbent filter

-     - The waste water is pumped onto the factory grounds for dust suppression

-     - The glycerol is sold to a company producing green bar soap

   










    Why should you consider using biodiesel?

-   Users can switch between biodiesel and regular diesel

Biodiesel ready for pumping into Paolo's trucks
-   Biodiesel can be blended with petrodiesel

-   It has a higher Cetane rating (an indicator of the combustion speed of diesel fuel) than regular fuel, improving the efficiency of compression ignition

-   Extended engine life

-   Degrades about four times faster after spillage than regular fuel