Him Outdoors was still on his mission to
klap the kilometres, muttering that the time we saved here could be spent in
Arusha so yet another 4h30 wake up call on Boxing Day. Dab hands we are, within
minutes we were packed, flask filled and ready to go. Except – one cat short.
“We have to review our cat departure
procedure,” HO announced. “This is now a big game for them.” We found Speckle eventually,
curled as tightly as she could under the curtain in a dark corner behind the
dressing table. Gotcha!
A good cup of coffee on the go gave us the
chatters and we were so busy debating the lack of personal life of the famous
and intrusion of the public and paparazzi into every minute of their day (I know, right, but it was 5h12 and we were on our 2nd cups of strong
Jacobs!) that we missed the turn towards Mpika, today’s destination. A fairly
bright braincell tugged the alarm when I noticed Ndola Road School. Ndola? The wrong toll road, surely? Pulling off at a roadside market, we made
enquiries. Indeed, several kilometers past the turn, it appeared. Henry did a
U-turn (very rare) and we motored back the way we’d come. It’s a pity we had
little time to linger as the veggies in the market were magnificent,
beautifully piled and arranged in a medley of colour and shape.
The excellent road droned away beneath
Henry’s tyres and the lush, fertile landscape rolled past. Occasionally we
passed pedestrians, all of whom, no matter their age or gender, carrying a
heavy hoe. Little boys swung theirs enthusiastically at weeds as they lagged
behind their parents. Sometimes a woman, holding a chicken by the legs,
brandished it at us, a kind of very fresh, still feathered KFC drivethru. Once,
a child pushed his reluctant goat onto the tarmac, indicating that if red meat
was on our shopping list, to look no further.
We were way out in the sticks about 2 hours
later when HO mentioned that diesel would be a good idea if we saw a garage. On
a scale of 0 – 10, 0 being no worries at all and 10 being a dead stop, he rated
us a 7, with no clue where, on the 87km
stretch of road between the last village and Mpika, we were. We were giving two
chaps on their way to church a lift, although unfortunately, they had little
English and even less idea of distance measured in kilometres but still, Defcon
7. Concerned but no panic. This just as we’d noted Livingstone’s Memorial on
the map, off to the left somewhere but not enough fuel to risk it.
So close but
still too far to visit what was sure to be a fascinating monument.
Uh oh, the light appeared within a few
minutes of this, as we crested a rise in the road and saw a petrol tanker
stopped a few metres ahead. Pulling alongside, I asked if we could buy some
diesel from him. To our utter astonishment, and after a negotiation led by our
two hitchers, he agreed to sell 20l to us. We pulled over, he filled a
container and produced a hose, we cut a water bottle funnel with a supersharp,
credit card knife HO got for his birthday and, with the assistance of our
passengers, Henry was resuscitated and we were off on our way again.
The cats disappeared under the bed the
minute 2 strangers climbed in to share their ride, reappearing only when we
stopped at Mango Grove Lodge in Mpika. They missed their first roadside assist!
It is completely inexplicable to us how
time and time again when travelling various lonely roads, our vehicle
emergencies are dealt with in the most extraordinary circumstances. Nkosi sikelel' iAfrika.
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